Tuesday 2 October 2018

2018 The Norway Expedition part One.

I begin on the 1st of May when we flew home to Gatwick and caught the train down to Sandwich. Most of the time was spent sorting out quotes for the new windows and double glazing on the Loop Street side. We also intend to refurbish the en suite as a wet room before we return to 'Piano'.  Top of the list were the new neighbors Stuart and Nicky who have been patiently awaiting our return. Stuart has done a great job with looking after the patio pots, which are all flourishing!

Next we travel to Bohill to prepare for our holiday cruising on the Hurtigruten ship MV Lofoten
Saturday 16th June we fly to Bergen and taken a bus to the city where we locate our first Air B'n B accommodation. This is in the town center at the top of a very old house. After a quick cup of tea we went exploring around the waterfront before having our first meal ashore.


The following day we checked out leaving our luggage in the house and spent the most part doing more tourist stuff. Namely taking the funicular railway to Mt Floyen to enjoy the views from the top,

 this while taking coffee and a pastry in comfort. Well prepared we then did a circular walk around a pleasant lake


before an equally pleasant walk back down into town for lunch.  The whole area is full of people walking ,cycling,having picnics and generally having fun in the glorious weather.


  After collecting our luggage we joined the ship

 and listened to the welcome speeches, security messages and general details about eating and so on. (We have to go through all this when we have new guests aboard 'Piano')  That evening the crew had laid on a terrific buffet with all sorts of delicacies.  We then enjoyed the views of our first sail towards Hjeltefjord.  This being same route that the Vikings once plied to the Shetland Islands and beyond.  Our first night in the small cabin was cosy and plenty warm enough,we did need the blind closed as it was still light after 11 o'clock!

Next morning we awakened to  Nordfjord, for a very short stop then a delicious breakfast. Absolutely all cuisines were catered for, if it wasn't out just ask and your hearts desire would be made for you! (the only limit here is how much you stomach can take)
  As we sailed past the West Cape, we travel out on the open sea. The ship then navigates through skerries and islands before reaching Ă…lesund. A note at this point that the old ship has no stabilizers which means a fair bit of rolling while in the open sea. This is not as bad as similar conditions aboard 'Piano'.

   Distinguished by its numerous spires, towers and highly-ornate buildings, Ă…lesund is renowned for its beautiful art nouveau architecture.


 It owes this to a devastating fire that burned a large proportion of the city to the ground in 1904. The same story is heard in many towns due to the fact that wood is the local building material and is quick to catch fire especially when it is also used as a heating fuel. The entire town was subsequently rebuilt in the fashionable style of the time, art nouveau. After this we set course for the spectacular UNESCO-listed Geirangerfjord passing sheer, 800 metre cliffs and impressive waterfalls en route.
Geirangerfjord
  While some people went ashore on a sightseeing trip we continued to Molde where they re-embarked later. Of course during the night we passed by Kristiansund,  Trondheim, Rorvik, Bronnoysund, Sandnessjoen, Nesna,and arrived at  Ornes just after breakfast on Wednesday this being a 15 minute stop. We would see the towns passed at night on the return trip.
Trondheim.
Our first full day aboard, started with a small breakfast before coming into Trondheim. Since this is where we would leave the ship on its return we had no need to rush around.
Book swap?

This is the old town bridge across the river Nidelva
Waterfront Apartments
We also did the cathedral, with gardens and the National palace, there will be plenty to do when we come back. Our Australian friends did a cycle tour with a cycle lift to take up a particularly high hill, it did need a bit of practice to be used safely!
Back aboard for lunch,which I haven't mentioned yet. This was always a choice of two or three cooked dishes with locally sourced food from the area through which we were passing. There was always a soup, fish choice and plenty of salad. In short all you could possibly want. A rest after lunch to watch the scenery and some pretty rough weather.  In fact the announcement came through to settle down and stop walking about as it was bound to cause accidents.

On then to Rorvik, by this time (8.40 pm ) we had eaten another delicious dinner and had nothing slide off the table. I think King Crab but whatever it was scrummy. We passed the larger MV Finmarken on her way home, very close by and everyone waved...

No time for sightseeing at Rorvik.
 The Arctic Circle Ceremony 66' 33° North.
                                   

You can see from the foul weather gear it was not a pleasant experience.
This is our AIS screen for the Circle.


 , a ladleful of ice poured down your back and then a shot of drink to revive you. All this for a certificate! Then onto Bodo for a couple of hours in the afternoon. Here we saw the full range of summer flowers roses, Nicotiana

and carnations alongside regular winter bulbs Daffodils Tulips and the like! That night we passed more villages and arrived at Tromso after lunch for a full afternoon sightseeing. Many Arctic Expeditions begin here so it is quite a big town with many people going about their daily business.
 First stop was the Ice Cathedral, which of course in summer has no ice at all. The roof is steep to allow the snow to be shed efficiently. We realised at this point that a bus ticket was valid for the whole day!!!
Back into town for the tourist spots

  We were dismayed at the animal pelts for sale, I really thought that in this day and age we had stopped pandering to the idle rich and their ideas of luxury goods. What good is that if poor people want to make money by selling them?? ( and yes there were seals, polar bears and many others on sale)
Library
The public buildings are designed for cold weather and 24 hour darkness. The library cunningly had a walk through to various cafes, shops and other council offices.
Overnight we pass Oksfjord,Hammerfest and Havoysund,
 Honningsvag  22nd June Bird watching trip this is a very slick operation, we had booked through the ships excursions manager and were not disappointed. After docking we were transported aboard a luxury coach to the harbour where a small motor boat (very well equipped with drinks food, cold weather gear binoculars etc) took us to the viewing area. Luckily it was a calm sunny day so we toured three islands and found all sorts of birds. We listened carefully to the guides who were explicit about which grey rock to look for a sea eagle on.

Then ended up seeing many! The sea was filled with flocks of Puffins, Guillemots, herons, cormorants, kittiwakes, gulls ad infinitum.


Stamsund, Lotofen Islands Pony Trekking. At this point we had almost 24 hours of daylight. On the downside it had been raining most of the day and we fully expected a wet evening. It seemed nothing out of the ordinary to go trekking in the evening after a pleasant dinner. By the time we were ashore it was a beautiful. We were picked up in the town center by Ella. During the minibus ride to the stables we watched a video explaining the vagaries of Norwegian ponies. They are a peculiar shape -being wide at the shoulders and narrow at the hips. This makes them slightly wider than usual for a western pony. They are also kind natured and gentle. After kitting up with waterproof /windproof clothing we met our mounts and set of along the beach,


 onto an inland track, through fish drying racks and between mountains. The trek was at least an hour and we were accompanied by a trail leader and her helper. Afterwards we were driven back to town and it could have been a warm summers afternoon.
 By 22.30  there was a chill wind blowing



                                                                              but back aboard all was toasty and warm.


The next day we were treated to a charity sale of various items which could be bought by auction. These being the ships postal flag, chart of the cruise route and other items. So much interest that the flag went for the highest price any item  has been bid for aboard  our boat.
Stops that day were Nesna, Sandnessjoen,
and Bronnoy. Here we had a short walk to the local museum which told the history of the area (in three languages) and had many artifacts to browse.
The highlight of the day was the Torghatten. Basically a granite mountain with large hole through the middle.  This is probably how Polos were invented. It is on the tiny (sic) island of Torget still in Bronnoysund.
and to top this action filled day there were speeches and a celebration dinner. 



The captain said that he had never known a midsummer cruise with such bad weather! It was his last trip- and the ship is retired next year I think. Anyway I expect he has something nice to say about all his trips. It is also our last night aboard so we have emails and notes to swap with many of our fellow passengers. Some will leave to continue a tour of Norway or Europe and others to return home to the southern hemisphere! We wish them all goodbye for now.
  After a hearty breakfast we packed the few last items and disembarked the boat.  I'll leave it there as a natural break after the cruise. This will give my avid readers time to absorb the sense of a truly Northern summer and the fact that no summer clothes were worn!  This will all change in Part two of the Norway Trip which I will begin to prepare while I'm still in the  U.K.

1 comment:

  1. Thank you for sharing your adventure with us.
    I found your narrative a thoroughly enjoyable read.
    Rose x

    ReplyDelete